BOX-E low-FODMAP eating experience and interview.
As I sit here on my plush pink velvet armchair reflecting, feeling content, with a belly full and a smile on my face from the lingering taste of the most incredible meal I’ve had out in years.
Tonight was the first time in 2 years that I was able to dine out - and I actually had options! To not have to speak with the restaurant beforehand, email over what I can (and can’t) eat or order last to go over my dietary needs. It was the first time in 2 years I was able to go out for food, relax and not feel like a weirdo. Granted, just before we ordered I realised that I’d left some pills at home and almost had a mild panic attack (nothing that a couple of breathing exercises couldn’t fix). But the panic soon passed as I was given a menu to choose from. A full menu that I could choose from!?
To anyone who hasn’t had issues with food, you might think I’m being a little bit overenthusiastic. But, as someone who has always been passionate about food, being able to eat out again really was like walking downstairs on Christmas day as an 8-year-old and seeing that doll's house sparkling under the twinkling fern tree.
BOX-E is a Michelin Guide listed restaurant located in a shipping container at Wapping Wharf (the Bristol waterfront). It’s owned by couple Tessa and Elliott, who change their menu based on what's in season. They’re the only restaurant that I’ve ever come across (from Australia to the UK) to cater for low-FODMAP. Not only that (which in itself is quite difficult), they have an entire FODMAP-friendly menu consisting of 3 starters, 3 mains and 2 desserts, and it all sounded pretty delicious.
After being spoilt for choice I went for:
Starter: chargrilled octopus with Isle of White heritage tomatoes.
Main: roasted aubergine with black rice and chilli.
Dessert: (ummm, of course, I had a dessert!!) a chocolate, raspberry and hazelnut dreaaaam (my favourite combination).
Finished off with an alcohol-free digestive. Muy Bueno. 😚👌
I could taste the passion Tessa and Elliott have for food. The love and care that went into the meals. “Taste” doesn’t usually factor into the food I get given when I usually eat out (which is why I prefer to cook). So, to be able to go out, order like a “normal” person and eat food as divine as the meal I had this evening made me more than a bit giddy.
The low-FODMAP diet is the most prescribed diet by doctors to tackle stomach issues and intolerances - this affects roughly half the population (which is only rising). This means half of us are finding it more difficult to eat out, or sacrificing our health to do so. We shouldn’t have to sacrifice health for good food, and tonight proves that we don’t have to sacrifice taste either. I hope more restaurants and cafes follow in BOX-E’s footsteps (…and I’m always here to help menu plan if they need it).
I sat down with lovely Tessa after my dining experience to talk a little bit more about how BOX-E came about catering low-FODMAP.
Q&A
Me: Firstly, thank you so much for our lovely meal last night. It was the first time in over 2 years that I was able to eat out and choose from a menu! Talk me through why you started BOX-E?
Tessa: When we opened we wanted to have as much of a positive impact as possible. Relating to the environment: nothing goes to landfill; everything gets recycled and reused… bottles from the bar get sent back to get refilled (being in Bristol makes this a lot more accessible!). But also to have a positive community impact - on top of BOX-E we also do volunteering and charity work.
Me: I saw that on your Instagram. What sort of work do you do?
Tessa: We work with Fairshare who take wasted food from the supermarket and distribute it to community organisations (homeless, old people, children etc.). We also work with the Square Food Foundation, teaching children (aged 15-16) to cook who’ve been excluded from school.
And during lockdown, we did a project for young care leavers where each week we put together food boxes with a recipe.
“We’re passionate about getting people into cooking for themselves. Not necessarily to become the world's best cook, but because it's empowering to be able to cook for yourself and the people you love.”
Me: That’s something I’m passionate about too. It’s a love language to share food. Something I think has been lost a little, along with buying good quality food. Which is why your meals are so delicious. How do you come up with your recipes?
Tessa: Bits change daily due to what’s available from suppliers. We focus on seasonal, local produce. Using food to celebrate the seasons. Now, for instance, it’s raining so we’ve started doing celeriac soup and our customers love that it’s soup season again! But we keep it simple - using fresh, good-quality, sustainable ingredients.
'“A restaurant doesn’t have to be vegan to be a sustainable place to eat.”
Me: That’s such an important point to make. Nowadays we think vegan food is the only sustainable option, but a lot of vegan food is now highly processed and imported. It’s just about being conscious of where your food comes from.
Tessa: People are becoming more aware of where things are sourced; if fish is being caught sustainably, for instance. I think it's getting better and branding makes it easier. The problem is… we’re now at a crossroads. As energy prices increase, people need to tighten their budgets - this is when people go for the cheaper, less sustainable options.
Me: It’s also education. I only started learning more about diet and nutrition a few years ago when I was getting ill. I thought I was pretty healthy before… until I learnt more about it.
“What I’ve also learnt is that it is possible to eat healthier for cheaper: getting local and seasonal produce from greengrocers, [and] learning to cook quick and easy meals. It’s possible - it’s just learning how.”
Tessa: It also tastes better in greengrocers! A carrot can be full of colour, flavour, vitamins and minerals. From a supermarket - it’s tasteless.
Me: I always say that about tomatoes!
What’s the story behind your catering for low-FODMAP?
Tessa: Soon after we first opened (6 years ago in October) a man came in with a laminated card showing foods he can and can’t eat, which was very helpful! The difficulty with low-FODMAP is that there’s no straightforward answer. But, what we’ve learnt over the years is that it’s relative to that person.
Me: Because it’s so complex, no two people are the same.
Tessa: Exactly, but everyone who comes in knows what works for them and what doesn’t.
Me: There’s still a misunderstanding around intolerances. I’ve had many unsympathetic remarks followed up with a refusal of olive oil and a dry salad when eating out. I think it’s incredible that you take it as seriously as you do, and still serve up such delicious and well-thought-out meals.
Have you had many people come in on a low-FODMAP diet?
Tessa: Not many.
“But, over time more and more people have come in with intolerances - it’s definitely increasing.
On a daily basis, we have in several intolerances."
Even just today we had wheat free, alcohol-free, vegan and dairy-free. It’s easier for us as we change our menu so frequently, which is why I think it’s so important for other places to offer different menus with these options. It’s not fair that people who are increasingly being put on this diet are having such difficulties eating out. We print a menu for each requirement so that people aren’t scanning.
Me: I really loved that last night - it was so nice to be able to have a whole menu to choose from! What would you say has been the hardest to cater for?
Tessa: No alliums are hardest - leeks, onion, garlic - as that’s one of the first steps as a chef. But, we work around it… use infused oils or juices instead.
Me: Lastly, would you please tell me how you made that chocolate hazelnut pudding?!
Tessa: We set it in layers using coconut oil, prune/dates, almonds and almond butter, and maple syrup.
Me: Delicious!
Thanks again Tessa and Elliot for a really beautiful evening - an evening I won’t forget. For giving me that Christmassy feeling again. And for being so welcoming, understanding and empathetic about food intolerances and dietary requirements. It was well worth the money, I’ll definitely be back!